Thomaston, Forsyth, Barnesville, Peachtree City, Macon, Fayetteville, Newnan, Jackson, McDonough, Locust Grove, Stockbridge, Roberta
Kellett & Sons Roofing
Whether building a new home or a new barn, you want a roof that will keep you dry for years to come. You can trust the experience at Kellett & Sons Roofing. We have more than 40 years of experience in all types of roofs.
Your business needs to run smoothly. Water spots in the ceiling reflect poorly on your business. Make sure that your rubber roof and modified bitumen roof are in good shape with an inspection.
Whether it is your home, your barn, or your warehouse, we have the experience and the product to make sure that you stay dry:
Whether it is your home, your barn, or your warehouse, we have the experience and the product to make sure that you stay dry:
When you are considering a new roof, consider Kellett & Sons Roofing. Call 770-358-7857 today for your FREE estimate on your roof.
We within Kellett and Sons Roofing, LLC, would like to assist you in making an informed decision regarding your roof. Attached is information to help you learn about the pros and cons of different materials, why certain materials are used and what they are used for, what we at Kellett and Sons Roofing , LLC recommend and why we recommend it, as well as what you as a home owner need to be aware of regarding federal laws and regulations. Its highly recommend that you have your roof inspected 1 time a year to help catch problems early to prevent bigger cost later. Could time be running out on your roof like sand through the hourglass? We recommend shingles like Tamko, Owens Corning, and GAF for their quality and we recommend Union steel for metal roofs because of their high quality. There are different types of roofs available on the market today ranging from prices and quality and warranties and we can help you pick the right one for you. As a dove flies high looking over things, let us do the same for you. Call us for your roofing needs. We will be here for you now and in the future.
We don’t use Nail Guns because… Wood density is not the same throughout the lumber. If the gun applies too much pressure, the nails will puncture a hole through the shingles. Too little pressure and the nail will not seat right. You won't notice this at first, because of the overlap in the shingles. But in high winds or other challenging weather conditions, the roof will lose shingles faster and the effects will be worse.
These are some samples to help you learn more about a roof system.
SHINGLES Roof shingles have been made of various materials such as wood, slate, asbestos, asphalt shingle, composite or ceramic and metal. Due to increased fire hazard, wood shingles and paper-based asphalt shingles have become less common than fiberglass-based asphalt shingles.
Asphalt Shingle life can vary. Manufacturers make 20 year, 25 year and 30 year shingles/life time limited and so on.
Aging of shingles
Stage1. Granules’ coming off which starts from day one and will increase over time Stage2. Shingles are blowing off more in less wind. This means the sealant that the manufacture uses to hold the flaps down is losing its effectiveness. Shingles are starting to crack. Granules are coming off more now. Stage3. Shingles curling up missing a lot of granules showing fiber are beyond help and should be replaced. Keep in mind that different products used have different signs of aging.
STACKING – installing new shingles on top of shingles already on the roof.
Stacking is a common practice in roofing because it lowers the cost of installing a new roof. However, this practice can have several negative effects on your roof.
Stacking affects the life of your shingles, adding more heat and burning them. Climate has effect on them to 20 yr shingles in the southern climate loses about 5 years and you can add to that lose because of stacking.
Stacking also adds weight to your roof structure, adding stress to your decking, trusses and rafters.
Asphalt shingles will absorb heat, and multiple layers can possibly raise your utility costs.
For every layer of shingles on your roof there is an additional cost for removal, making stacking less cost effective in the long run.
According to building codes, residences are allowed to have a maximum of 3 layers of shingles and commercial building are allowed a maximum of 2 layers. Anything over 3 layers may cause your roof to collapse due to the excess weight.
We recommend a complete tear-off of old shingles before a new layer is installed for the reasons listed above.
FELT – Roofing felt has been in use for over a hundred years. Originally felt was made from recycled rag but today felts are made of recycled paper products and sawdust. The most common felt product is the so-called #15 felt. Before the oil crisis felt weighed about 15 pounds per square (one square = 100 square feet) and hence the asphalt-impregnated felt was called "15#" or "15 pound felt". Modern felts no longer weigh this, and to reflect this fact the new felts are called "#15" asphalt felt. In fact, #15 felts can weigh from 7.5 to 12.5 pounds/sq ft depending on the manufacturer and the standard to which felt is made. Thirty pound felt, of 30# felt, is now #30 felt, and actually usually weighs between 16 and 27 pounds per square. Hence, to get a product similar to a #15 felt of old, one could specify a modern #30 felt.
Felt paper is used, among other things, for waterproofing roofs to prevent ingress of moisture. It is used as underlayment for asphalt, wood shingles, or other type’s roofs since felt paper itself isn't particularly wind or sun-resistant.
#15 Felt is the most commonly used felt and is a warranty requirement of the shingle manufacturers.
#30 Felt is required for use with wood shingles and metal roofs and/or a warranty requirement. It can also be used for shingle roofs and hot mop.
Without the use of felt, shingle manufacturers will not warranty their products because of possible deterioration of the decking and roof structure.
If felt is left exposed for an extended length of time, wind and rain can damage the felt. We remove the felt layer if it shows signs of a white fungus, which indicates water has intruded that specific area and to allow for inspection of the decking. If you have an existing layer of felt; we will add another layer of #15 felt for the added protection of your roof structure.
SYNTHETIC FELT (Titanium Felt)
Synthetic or Titanium felt can be exposed to weather longer than #15 or #30 felt and is much lighter weight; however the price is higher per square but it is a better quality.
BOOTS – are used to keep water from around the plumbing pipes extending though the roof.
Metal boots - are used for hot water heaters and furnaces.
RUBBER NEOPRENE – They are good in keeping the water out for 15 to 20 years, however, over time the rubber will break down from the exposure of the sun and will require replacement. These are the most commonly used.
LEAD BOOT – The lead boot has a longer life span than the rubber boot. However, they are more expensive than the rubber boot and the squirrels use them to wear their teeth down.
VENTILATION – ventilating your roof adds life to the shingles and removes heat and moisture.
No ventilation leads to heat buildup in your attic space, and the heat is pushed down through the insulation into the living spaces of your home, which will increase your utility costs to cool your home. Moisture left in the attic space can possibly rot out decking and rafters.
TURTLEBACKS – are used for air circulation in the attic.
When the heat, in the attic builds up enough pressure it is released through the turtlebacks. Several turtlebacks must be installed to ensure proper air circulation.
Turtlebacks are low profile, and are less noticeable than other types of vents.
TURBINS – are used for air circulation in the attic.
Turbines use wind to help circulate air in the attic. The wind spins the fan in the turbine to pull the hot air out of the attic. Fewer turbines are needed to ventilate an attic than turtlebacks. However, they have a much higher profile, and are more noticeable. Also high winds can pull off the tops of turbines. Over time the bearings in the fan can go bad and they will make squeaking sounds.
POWERVENTS – are used for air circulation in the attic. Power vents use electricity to pull the hot air out of the attic, which will add to your utility bill. The motor in the powervent will wear out in time and they do make noise. Once powervents turn on it usually takes hours for them to shut off.
RIDGEVENTS – are used for air circulation in the attic. They come in two types, plastic and aluminum. They work in the same way. Ridge vents are placed at the peaks of the roof allowing heat to escape easily. They allow more heat to escape than turtlebacks or turbines and do not require any power source. The efficiency of the ridge vent also brings utility costs down more than any other ventilation product. However ridge vents need to be replaced when the shingles are replaced.
PLASTIC RIDGEVENT- Also called shingle over ridge vent. If properly installed plastic ridgevents can withstand a higher wind than aluminum ridgevents.
ALUMINUM RIDGEVENT - is used the same way that you would use the plastic ridge vent but does not have shingles over it. Because of the lighter weight, they are easily blown off roofs. Sun exposure is also an issue with the aluminum ridge vent because the metal expands and the nails used for installation will be pulled up slightly. When the metal cools it will contract leaving the nails protruding from the roof and allowing water intrusion into the home.
FLASHING – is used for valleys, walls, chimneys, drip edges and as a water barrier.
GALVANIZED METAL – helps prevent water intrusion into the house and protect the valleys, if someone walks in the valley and breaks the shingles the water stays on the metal and not into the house. The galvanized metal flashing can last up to 60 years. Without flashing in the valleys, manufacturers will not guarantee the shingles. Galvanized metal is more resistant to puncture than aluminum.
WATER BARRIER or PEEL AND STICK – The peel and stick is a water barrier that is harder to tear then the 90#. The cost is equivalent to galvanized metal and it seals itself around the nails.
ROLL ROOFING or 90# - is used for valleys and flat roofs. Roll roofing has a life span of a year on flat roofs. When covered with shingles in valleys there is a longer life. It can tear easily if you walk on it in the valleys.
ALUMINUM - can be used in valleys however the granules from the shingles can but holes in the metal because it’s so thin. DRIP EDGE – It is designed to keep water from dripping down the fascia. When shingles are installed properly, the shingles do the same thing.
CHIMNEY FLASHING - (4x4 w/hem, 10 ft lengths) – is used along the walls to keep the water out. It is good for short distances and it can be used on the chimney. It is not recommended for long distances as the water tends to get under shingles.
STEP FLASHING (3x4x7) – This is when you alternate between shingles and flashing to keep the water out. It is the best way of flashing for walls and chimneys.
COUNTER FLASHING – is used to cover the step flashing by cutting the brick 1” deep and installing the counter flashing in the grove and over the step flashing. It can be reused without cutting more brick.
WORKERS COMPENSATION – If you hire a contractor without workers compensation, you can get sued if an accident occurs on the property. The owner should request a copy of the certificate of insurance from the contractor. This will protect the homeowner from a lawsuit. If a contractor cannot provide a copy of the certificate, it is not wise to hire them for the job. Ask the contractor what safety equipment they use and training for their employees. OSHA requires that the contractor has safety equipment on the job site and in use while working: body harness, lanyards, ropes/cables, anchors, hard hats, safety glasses, and hearing protection are some of the safety equipment. OSHA has rescinded Directive STD 03-00-001, which allowed residential roofers/construction workers to implement alternative fall protection and work procedures than what is typically required under 1926.501(b)(13) (requiring the use of guardrail systems, safety net systems, or personal fall arrest systems.
For other types of roofs that can be used for your job, look on the manufactures web pages. Research will help you make a well-informed decision about your new roof. Just like looking for the right roofer for your job, knowledge of the different shingles and the pros and cons of each is essential for your satisfaction.